The watch, this little technological jewel fixed to our wrist, includes several terms allowing us to understand how it works. Through this article, you will learn more about watchmaking vocabulary. You will thus be able to choose your timepiece model wisely.
316L steel
It is a steel alloy that makes up the majority of the components of a watch. It is naturally stainless thanks to its low content, thus guaranteeing the luxurious character of a watch.
NeedleIt is a mobile element of the dial whose role is to indicate time information by pointing towards the numbers or indexes. Generally speaking, a watch has 3 hands which designate the hours, minutes and seconds.
AlternationAlternation means ticking in the world of watchmaking. It is the regular movement of your watch's oscillator that allows it to measure time accurately. The higher the alternation, the more accurate your watch is.
Non-magneticThis is a jargon indicating the ability of a watch to resist against a magnetic field. The more your watch supports the effect of magnetism, the more its parts are composed of antimagnetic alloy.
AmplitudeIt is the measurement of the maximum movement of the balance wheel of a mechanical or automatic watch. It is generally expressed in degrees and is used to evaluate the performance of a watch.
AnchorIt is a device incorporated into the movement of a watch. Its purpose is to distribute energy and control the regularity of the movement of the hand.
AppliedThe term refers to the small metal pieces cut out and attached to the dial representing the indexes of a watch.
BarbPositioned at one end of the bracelet, this small articulated metal point allows the bracelet to be fixed around the wrist.
ATM (atmosphere)The term indicates the level of water resistance of a watch by referring to the unit of measurement of atmospheric pressure (1 bar = 1ATM = 100 meters)
AutomaticThe term refers to the mechanism of a watch that operates through the kinetic movements provided by its owner's wrist.
Balance wheelCircular in shape, the balance wheel is defined as the main element of a watch. Through its oscillating movement, it ensures the accuracy of your time.
BarrelIt is a cylindrical, notched part. Its role is to store the energy provided by the winding system in order to redistribute it to the different gear shapes of the watch.
HousingIt acts as the watch's protective shell against any external attack: shock, humidity, dust.
Pin buckleThis is the usual clasp for wristwatches. Composed of a metal point, the latter is articulated on a buckle in order to hold the bracelet closed thanks to small holes located on the bracelet.
Folding claspThis type of hinged clasp deploys each time it is opened. It also keeps the watch on the wrist in case of accidental opening.
Push buttonLocated on the case of a watch, it allows you to activate a particular function of your timepiece.
BraceletAvailable in different materials, shapes and sizes, the element allows you to secure your watch around your wrist.
BrushingIt is a process used to treat the surface of a watch using a special brush. Its purpose is to obtain a more matte or satin finish. Used on military or sports watches, it illustrates a more robust and sporty appearance.
CabochonOrnament that is located on the case of your watch. Generally, it is made of precious stone or polished stone, but not cut.
DialMetal part of your watch displaying a multitude of information: hours, minutes, seconds, date, etc.
CaliberIt defines the movement of a watch according to its origin, its type and its manufacturer. Moreover, each watchmaker has its own reference to identify their caliber.
GrooveA groove located on the crown of the winder or on the outer edge of the case. It has a design role and also facilitates the handling of a particular function of a watch.
BuildOne of the main components of the case, it is located between the case back and the bezel.
RailIt is a graduation printed on the dial of a watch in the shape of a railway, indicating the minutes or seconds of your timepiece.
ChronocomparatorDevice used by watchmakers to measure the precision of a watch, but also to detect its defects.
ChronographIt specifies a watch equipped with a stopwatch function. With the help of a push button, you can start this function and stop it at your convenience according to your need.
ComplicationThe term refers to all the additional functions of a watch other than the basic functions: hour, minute and second.
HornDevice located at the end of the case, it allows the watch to be connected to the bracelet.
COSCThe Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute or COSC is a non-profit organization that individually awards the title of certified chronometer after submitting your watch to various tests.
CrownLocated on the outside of the case, the button is used to wind the watch, in short to set the time and date.
ExhaustIt is displayed as a key element of the movement of a watch. By controlling the distributed energy, it therefore ensures the precision and regularity of the watch.
Between hornsThis jargon refers to the distance between the 2 horns of the watch. The dimension of the horn between the horns (18 mm to 24 mm) defines the size of the watch strap.
Fly backOriginally intended for airplane pilots, it allows an event to be timed precisely. The stopwatch is reset to zero instantly by pressing the push button.
Case (or watch) backThis term refers to the cover at the back of the case that ensures the watch's water resistance. The back can be screwed, clipped and/or transparent to expose the movement.
FrequencyIt expresses the number of oscillations performed by the pendulum in one second (between 5 and 10 frequencies per second). Measured in Hertz, the extrapolation of the number of vibrations in hours makes it easier to understand: 18000 (2.5Hz), 21600 (3Hz), 28800 (4Hz) or 36000 (5Hz).
GMTThe GMT or Greenwich Mean Time display indicates the universal time zone. A GMT watch has the ability to display 2 time zones including local time and universal time.
Ticket officeAn opening located at 3 o'clock on the dial, it usually displays the current date, but the window can also provide other information.
Guilloche patternThe action consists of decorating the dial or case of a watch manually or by machine. The technique makes it possible to reinforce the aesthetic appearance of a watch.
HertzIn the world of watchmaking, it measures the operating frequency of a movement.
Jumping hourIt corresponds to a watch whose time is displayed in a window generally located at noon. The time changes by jumping every 60 minutes.
IndexIt is a marker that shows the location of the hours on the dial. It comes in several forms depending on the appearance of the hands: line, Roman numeral, Arabic numeral, etc.
LuminescenceLuminescence defines the characteristic of watch hands and indexes visible in the dark thanks to the emission of a light ray through the LumiNova system.
LumiNovaIt is a luminous substance deposited on the hands and indexes of a watch. It accumulates light and reflects it as soon as you are in the dark. Thus, the technique allows you to know the time even if you are plunged into darkness.
TelescopeLocated on the upper part of the case, above the caseband, it supports the watch glass. Fixed or rotating, it expresses several functions, including the measurement of a distance traveled, a dive duration, etc.
ManufactureA guarantor of quality in watchmaking, the manufacture is equivalent to a watch brand that handcrafts all or almost all of the different components of a watch in its own workshops.
Oscillating massMade of heavy metal (gold, tungsten, platinum) to ensure the regularity of the oscillation, the oscillating weight or rotor recharges the barrel spring as long as the owner's wrist remains in motion.
Pocket watchSaid of a pocket watch which takes its name from the small pocket of a waistcoat (the fob) used to store the watch. Generally with a flap, this watch is attached to the waistcoat by a chain or ribbon.
Analog watchAn analog watch refers to one that uses hands to indicate the hour, minute, and second.
Smart watchSmart watch or smart watch in English, it refers to watches that integrate advanced communication capabilities such as sending/receiving calls, Bluetooth, smartphone notifications, health functionality, etc.
Luxury watchMade from high-end materials, a luxury watch also includes complex complications such as minute repeaters, tourbillons, etc. Its exceptional manufacturing process gives it the status of a work of art. As a result, it always has a particularly high price.
Sports watchDesigned for sports activities, it has a waterproof and resistant property while incorporating complications familiar with sport (tachometer, stopwatch, etc.)
Mechanical watchUnlike a quartz watch, a mechanical watch is a watch that operates without a battery. The instrument will be powered by a hand-wound movement or an automatic movement.
Skeleton watchRefers to a transparent watch that reveals its internal mechanism.
MovementThe movement of a watch is the set of parts that ensure its proper functioning. There are 3 types: quartz, manual and automatic movement.
Gold (white, yellow, pink or red)Gold refers to the metal alloy that makes up the case of a watch. The terms white, yellow, pink, red correspond to the type of gold used. The alloy used is differentiated according to the desired color. 75% pure gold, 12.5% silver and 12.5% copper make up yellow gold. 5% pure gold, 20% copper and 5% fine silver make up the alloy of pink or red gold. The combination of 75% pure gold, silver, and sometimes palladium makes it possible to obtain white or gray gold. Note that the type of gold used influences the price of the watch.
OscillationThe jargon expresses the back and forth movement of a pendulum between two extreme locations.
Small secondUnlike a big seconds watch which displays the seconds via a central hand, the small seconds is displayed on a sub-dial usually located at 6 o'clock or 9 o'clock on the main dial.
Moon phaseIt is a complication that expresses the four lunar phases: new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter. This cycle of the moon is renewed every 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds.
PlatinumThis is a part supporting all the organs of the movement, including the famous dial. It also reflects a stainless metal that sometimes makes up luxury watches.
Hallmark of GenevaIt is a quality certificate awarded to luxury watches produced in the canton of Geneva, Switzerland. Obtaining this symbol implies respecting the watch manufacturing process according to the Geneva watchmaking tradition.
PolishingThe technique involves treating the surface of a watch in order to obtain a smooth, mirror-like surface. Polishing provides an elegant and sophisticated finish to luxury watches.
BridgeIt corresponds to all the parts that serve as support for all the components of the movement located on the plate.
PusherThe word spells out a button located on the case. The pusher provides a control role for the stopwatch functions and even opening a cover.
PVDPVD or Physical Vapor Deposition is the process of performing a metal coating technique on a watch. The aim is to give the case and bracelet a durable and aesthetic finish.
Annual calendarUnlike the annual calendar, the complication does not take into account the leap year (28 and 29 of February) but only the 30 and 31 of each month. In this case, you must set your date at the beginning of each March.
Perpetual calendarThe term refers to a complication that automatically and accurately displays the day, date, and month. The complication takes into account the variances of the (30th and 31st of the month) as well as the leap year (28th and 29th of February).
QuartzPowered by an electric battery, the quartz movement is distinguished by the use of a quartz crystal in order to allow oscillations with great precision.
Automatic windingIt represents a mechanical device that uses the natural movement of the wrist to automatically wind a watch.
Manual windingUnlike automatic winding, the operation consists of winding the watch manually by gently turning the winding crown.
WinderIt is translated by a rod linked to the crown of the winder. It is used to give a new impulse to a watch by means of automatic or manual winding.
RepetitionUsually found on luxury watches, it allows you to know the time on demand through the sound of bells or another type of sound. There are different types of repeaters: quarter and half-quarter repeaters, 5-minute repeaters, minute repeaters.
Power reserveThe expression refers to the running time of a mechanical watch after being fully wound for a manual winding system or left completely still for a self-winding system.
SpringIt is a strip of hardened steel located in the barrel. It provides the mechanical energy supply to a watch.
RubyThe ruby corresponds to the element which allows to reduce as much as possible the friction caused in a watch mechanism.
Hardlex glassHardlex glass is a subtype of mineral glass developed by Seiko for its diving watches. It therefore offers more resistance than a classic mineral glass, but does not yet match the robustness of a sapphire crystal.
Mineral glassInexpensive but durable, it is one of the most widely used glasses in the watch industry to protect the dial and hands. However, it is not as robust as a sapphire crystal.
Sapphire glassNaturally resistant and virtually scratch-proof, it is a protective glass for the dial and hands. Some manufacturers replace the case back of some of their watch models with this type of glass.
TachometerThe device allows to calculate the average speed of a moving object (km/h in general). It usually works with the second hand.
WhirlwindIt is a mechanical system invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. The aim is to compensate for the deviations in rate caused by the Earth's gravity. Overall, this device improves the precision of a watch.
Second handMoving in fits and starts while following the oscillating movements of the balance wheel, the second hand also signifies the seconds hand. The large second hand is displayed on the center of the dial while the small second hand is located on a subdial.